The director, producer, writer, production manager/coordinator, post production supervisor, first assistant director, second assistant director, production assistant, production accountant, location manager, publicist and as if you didn’t think that was enough, casting director of this classic is brought to you by Ms. Brianne.

Our lovely leading lady, who will also be providing the voices of horses Apple and Carrot, is none other then Ms. Emma.

We ask that you be especially forthcoming with flash photography, clapping and cheering throughout the presentation.

Intermission refreshments brought to you by, “The Family Refrigerator”.

We hope you enjoy this wonderful production brought to you by Picture-Frame Theatre.

For your own Picture-Frame Theatre you will need the following from your local arts and supply craft store:

Picture frame or window frame (size of your choosing)

• 1 yard of fabric
• Iron
• Sewing machine or needle and thread
• 3 eye screws
• Braided wire
• Ribbon
• Decorative garland

Choose a picture frame or window frame at the size according to your needs. While you can pick up either frame at a craft store or home improvement store, flea markets and second hand shops may offer better deals. Should you choose a window frame make sure it is free of lead-paint and rusty nails or hardware.

Curtain

Measure out fabric according to the width and height of the inside of your frame, allowing extra length for draping and seams allowances should you sew a hem or add ruffles.  Cut in half, hem and then iron-press 1 to 2 inches of folded material along the top (wrong sides together) and sew. This will be where you will thread the braided wire.

Depending on how you wish to hang your curtain, measure out and mark with a pencil three areas for your eye screws. You’ll want one at each top corner on the back of your frame and one right in the center.

Hang your curtain, overlapping the wire over the eye screw at the center or threading through as you desire.

Tie back your curtains with ribbon and decorate the remainder of the frame with decorative garland or battery-operated miniature LED lights.

Extra tips and suggestions! Picture-frame theatres can be lean-tos if using small, light-weight frames. For heavier pieces glue/screw two sets of large, plain bookends to the front and back of the frame; this method is great for standing your theatre on tables. Also, though it may be cost effective to use wire and eye screws, a small, inexpensive curtain rod can be attached to the back of larger frames. Follow directions included with the rod.

And don’t forget your ticket!

So the gig is up, obviously I have a penchant for elephants! Who can resist that enormous trumpeting stack of wrinkles, those enormous boat-size ears and did I mention those folds of wrinkles? To top things off, Valentine’s Day is right around the corner; love will be thick in the air and far too much tempting chocolate will be hanging under our noses. Throw caution to the wind, scoop up a handful of chalky candy hearts, persnickety your way through a box of mystery chocolates and of course, wear your heart on your trunk!

This craft is great for kids, just follow the steps below and click the picture to get a large step-by-step guide. You will need from your local arts and crafts supply store the following:

• Fimo Effects clay in sparkling gray and sparkling red
• Large jump ring or 22 gauge wire
• Knitting needle
• Miniature heart cookie cutters
• Exacto knife
• Powdered chalk (pink and gold)
• Elmer’s super glue
• Magnets
• Fabric strips

Things you need but are not necessary:

• Clay oven
• Glaze
• Pasta machine
• Clay sculpting tools

Take the bar of sparkling gray Fimo and work well before diving into four balls, two of which will be the same size (ears), one the head and the other a trunk. Make the trunk and bend into a soft hook shape, attach to head, working the two objects together with your fingers. Next take the two like-size balls of gray Fimo flatten in your palm and attach to either side of the elephants head, using your fingers to attach and gently expanding the size of the ears to the desired size.

Use a knitting needle to make eyes and clay tools or an Exacto knife to give your elephant character by adding wrinkles about the face, trunk and ears. Attach a jump ring or bent 22 gauge wire on the bottom of the head and then very gently flatten the back of the elephants heads and ears against a smooth, no-stick surface such as a small baking dish. Decorate the elephant with powdered chalks as desired.

Now flatten a small ball of the sparkling red Fimo clay in a pasta machine and cut out three or more various size hearts. A quick tip for making holes, leave the cutters on the clay as you use a knitting needle to make a hole, this will keep the heart from losing its shape; remove excess clay before lifting away cutters. Make a separate heart with the smallest heart-shape cutter by rounding out a small ball of red, flattening it in hand and splicing to desired thickness with an Exacto knife. Give the heart a slight curve to fit snuggly on the elephant’s trunk tip by using a knitting needle.

Bake your elephant and all hearts according to instructions.

Once completely cool super glue magnets to the back of the elephant’s head. Use as many as you feel necessary to ensure a good mounting hold, in this case I’ve applied three small size magnets. Super glue small heart to trunk-tip and use fabric strips to attach the flat heart to the jump ring/gauge wire at the bottom of the elephant.

A quickie clay tip: This Fimo clay is extremely soft so once you’ve the head of the elephant completed it is best to find a non-stick surface that will allow you to work on the head without actually holding the clay in the palm of your hand or having to pick it up by hand numerous times. The longer it is in hand the more likely it is to hold fingerprints or change shape. I’ve found small cake baking pans that fit in my clay oven are perfect surfaces in which to lay my work, push it gently against the pan enough to stick and then I can freely move the piece about as I continue working on it.

Well, I don’t know about you, but I seriously needed a break from all the holiday crazy crafting. Even the most die-hard goes through a dry spell (I hope so or else they are really making me look bad!) and then slowly, ever-so-slowly starts twiddling away at one project or another to start off the New Year.

But what project to start if one doesn’t want to go full tilt into some massively time consuming craft, but not wanting to waste a single minute of precious time and expensive resources on a smaller project?

Enter the Artist Trading Card, the woman’s baseball card and like a piece of dark chocolate, you simply can’t have one, but even a tiny bite soothes the savage (artsy) beast.

For this crafting project you will need the following from your local arts and crafts supply store:

• Various colored and texture card stock paper
• Scissors
• Magazines/old books/print outs/newspaper
• Stickers
• Stamps
• Hole punches
• Yarn
• Glue
• Glitter
• Markers
• Crayons
• Any type of collage embellishments you may so desire

An ATC measures 2.5 x 3.5 inches and this is the ONLY thing about an ATC that is standard. Everything else, from the “ground” paper to the subject of your design and all the embellishments is strictly up to you, the artist. Which means, as a New Year project you can get as complicated or simple with an ATC piece as you see fit. Spend hours and days on one card, or a couple of minutes pounding out dozens.

ATC’s are the truly one of a kind piece of artwork, trade them amongst other ATC enthusiasts or have an ATC party with friends. They are great for kids, especially with Valentine’s right around the corner and your little ones can even have their own art display inviting friends over to look at their work or create an art gallery for their dolls.

These little pocket works of art are great for home decor. Frame one or dozens in display frames, glue them to clothes pins and clip to curtains or glue magnets on the back to hang on the refrigerator.

The possibilities are endless!

You will need the following from your local arts and crafts supply store for your own Casanova Frosty. The directions follow:

• Polymer clay
• Polymer liquid clay
• Paint brush
• 20 gauge wire
• Clothespin
• Exacto knife
• Scrap fabric
• Toothpick
• Elmer Super glue
• Aluminum foil
• Glaze
• Large knitting needle

The following is recommended but not necessary:

•  Miniature cookie cutters
• Clay oven
• Pasta machine
• Powdered chalk

Make three descending-in-size balls of white or pearl Premo polymer clay. Take a toothpick, cut off the pointed ends and insert each ball of clay making sure the toothpick does not poke out of either the bottom or top of Casanova Frosty.

Using rounded miniature cookie cutters make two circles, one slightly larger than the other. Flatten, on a 5 or 6 setting on a pasta machine, a rounded ball of clay and cut a long rectangular piece, roll and fit between the two circles to form Frosty’s hat. Use a large knitting needle to form a hole at the bottom of the hat so as to fit on the snowman’s head.

Make Frosty’s face with various size round balls of black clay with orange for a nose. A scarf can be made following the instructions from Santa’s in the House. 

For Frosty’s belly, use a miniature heart cookie cutter on flattened Sculpey II clay on a six or higher setting on a pasta machine. His gloves are slightly flattened circles with two tiny circles for thumbs. Twenty gauge wire is perfect for Frosty’s arms.

Once complete, take the 20 gauge wire and poke a hole in the bottom of Frosty going as far into the clay as possible, remove and set aside for later use.

Use Polymer liquid clay for adhesive, powdered chalk for antiquing if desired, bake according to instructions.*

As Frosty is baking take a clothes pin and wrap 20 gauge wire around one side leaving plenty of overhang to re-insert in the bottom of Frosty, securing with super glue. Allow time for glue to dry than glaze as desired. Scrap fabric wrapped below Frosty is a perfect way to hide the 20 gauge wire.

Clip Frosty to curtain rods, attach to gift bags, use in flower arrangements, to hang your child's artwork, the possibilities are endless!

      *cough, cough*

      “Hello, my name is Beth, mother of two, and I have no ability, whatsoever, to wrap gift  gifts; birthday, Christmas, wedding, etc., none, zip and nada.”

I can take a roll of decorative paper, a dozen tape dispensers and one child’s scissors and at some point, hours later, there will be a heap of items resembling wrapped gifts. An entire roll of tape has been used, each gift has mushy corners with indiscriminate bumps and rolls across what should be a smooth surface and did I mention an entire roll of tape is used in the process?

I don’t understand it. I’ve two perfectly working opposable thumbs. I have studied gifts received with reverent awe. I have carefully watched my husband, yes, THE hub, wrap gifts with expert ease.  I come from a long line of women who wrap with perfection, albeit that they have a tendency to leave price tags on everything, but who cares amongst the smart, sharply wrapped corners and perfectly tied bows?

Yet, here I sit so close to Christmas, a mother of two, breathing deep into a paper bag as I prepare myself for the inevitable catastrophe that will soon be lumped under the family Christmas tree.  

So, for my sisters out there in the world, somewhere, wherever and whoever you should be, that also find themselves stricken with such inability as to wrap something as simple as a toy truck, a small doll or even, a bowling ball. I’m here for you, I sympathize and hey, there’s always the fabric gift bag to turn to for Christmas gifts.

You will need to following from your local arts and crafts supply store:

• Fabric scraps of various sizes
• Sewing thread, needle, and/or sewing machine
• Scissors
• Decorative garland, ribbon, string, etc.
• Tissue paper
• Safety pin

Depending on how big the gift will determine the size of your fabric gift bags. For me, I made several small bags for the Christmas ornaments made for the girls’ teachers at my blog entry Santa’s in the House.

Before seam allowance my bag measured a little over 11 inches in length, six wide, allowing extra length not only for seam but for turning over at the tops for looping ribbon. Use the gift as a guide for how large a square to cut. I suggest folding fabric, with the bottom of the bag running along the fold.

Once you have your fabric folded cut with like sides together and iron, then fold the top three to four inches back, iron flat.

I sew the top folds first, leaving enough room for the ribbons, strings, etc. that you plan to use as drawstrings to close the bag. Use your finger as a guide, one finger width is great, two is much safe.

Make sure that when you next sew up the sides you do not sew the top folds for the drawstrings.

Once sewing is complete turn right side out, iron if needed and string ribbon, garland, string or all three through the top folds. A safety pin is a great way to get ribbon through the folds. Fill bottom of bag with tissue or shredded paper, then your gift, and pull close.

Simple, easy, recyclable, and no tape required, though opposable thumbs is still recommended!

Don’t forget your gift tags and remember, I’m here for you!

H

I mean, honestly, what kind of response is a half-hearted grunt coupled with a, “I don’t know.” shrug?

I expected a little more than that when asking for his opinion on what to call my latest Christmas crafting project. But my husband’s response was nothing, not a word, not a peep, not so much as a knitted brow, or roll of eyes.

So fine, be that way, dear. I’ll just call it the, “The Wand-of-Something” and be happy with it.

I guess. 

Fair warning though to the hub, when our next child is born and I sign his birth certificate Bartholomew Supercalifragilisticexpialidocious, don’t say I didn’t ask for your feedback. You grunted in reply, so I took that as a yes.

For your own Wand-of-Something for yourself, as a Christmas gift or to keep the kids busy during a snow day follow these easy instructions that combine my love of sculpting, working with wood, fabrics and beads.

You will need the following from your local arts and craft supply store:

• Wood dowel (3/8 x 36 cut in half)
• Polymer clay
• Liquid clay
• Paint brush
• Elmer’s super glue
• Electric tape
• Steel jump rings
• Scrap fabric, ribbon and/or yarn

Recommended but not necessary:

• Clay oven
• Knitting needles
• Tiny glass beads
• 32 gauge wire
• Various sterling silver beads
• Powdered chalk
• Glitter paint
• Aluminum foil
• Exacto knife

For this entry I’m going to show you how to make a very simple Wand-of-Something Cupcake. But don’t box yourself in a corner, wood dowels are very inexpensive, have fun and make dozens of everything imaginable!

Steps on making a cupcake can be seen on my previous blog entry for the Treat Tree.

The only difference is the size of the cupcake, which top and bottom measure close to the diameter of a half dollar. Once your cupcake is made, make a slight indention on the bottom with the dowel; set aside.

Your cupcake is going to need a base to assist in the later attachment to the dowel. Take a ball of clay and make a long snake and then coil it gently around the top of the dowel. Do not wrap tightly, this is just to get a proper fitting. Once the snake is coiled about the dowel paint liquid clay on top and fit the cupcake over top. Now gently press the cupcake and coil together, just enough to stick, and then pull both off the dowel.

On a protected surface further press the cupcake and coil gently together, and then add as many jump rings as you wish to the back of your cupcake. The jump rings will be used to add fabric, ribbons and other notions to complete the Wand-of-Something in a later step.

A great way to add dimension to your clay work is by using powdered chalks. Gold is a great way to give your clay piece an antique look. I have lightly brushed gold colored chalk to various areas of the cupcake and coil.

Use liquid clay to further secure coil, cupcake, jump rings and cherry top.

Set aside.

Take another ball of clay, the diameter of a quarter or less and fit on the end of the dowel. Push as far as you can without sending the dowel through the clay and remove. Re-roll the clay gently in your hands and refit. Do these steps repeatedly until you have a nice round shape and decent fit to the end of the dowel.

Bake all clay pieces according to instructions.*

Once the cupcake and single clay ball is completely cooled, decorate with paints and glaze as desired.

While waiting for the paints and glaze to dry take the dowel and wrap 4 to 5 inches of one end with electrical tape. Leave a quarter of an inch or so exposed dowel at the very tip so that you can super glue the single baked clay ball at this end. Allow to dry.

Next turn the cupcake upside down and drop as much super glue as you feel necessary to coat the coil (but don’t drown it) then immediately attach it to one end of the dowel. Be sure the cupcake is secure and straight. Allow time to dry.

Now you are free to add strips of fabric, ribbons or beaded gauge wire to the jump rings in the back or further decorate the cupcake as you so desire. The possibilities are endless!

* Because this is such a tall piece be careful when baking. Make sure clay doesn’t hit any of the cooking elements inside the oven. Also, you may need to use aluminum foil as props against the cupcake to keep from having any flat spots or from sliding off the coil. If you simply cannot get the piece to stand while inside the oven, separate the coil and cupcake, bake and when cool super glue the two pieces together. Another tip, if the coil will not fit on the end of the dowel after baking use an Exacto knife to chisel away some of the clay, but please do so with extreme care!

“It sets a bad example,” They outrageously cry. “Shape up, chubby!”

Obviously the Big Guy in Red is in the fight of a lifetime after years of obligatory eating of plates full of cookies and brimming glasses of milk. There’s no way Santa would turn up his nose at such hospitality. The only extended hand of thanks, mind you, he receives for delivering toys to every good little boy and girl around the world.

What else would these Scrooges and Grinches have us do? Lay out a platter of rice cakes and a glass topped with tap water?

Bah-humbug, I say!

I’ll make haste on Christmas Eve by putting out my best home baked holiday cookies and will pour long from the gallon of milk in the fridge; Santa deserves every sugary morsel and calorie-thick drop. And as an extra way of thumbing my nose at those who demand Santa get a six pack I’ve made a miniature Christmas tree full of cupcakes and cakes!

If you would like to dismay the naysayers over Santa’s jolly physique you will need the following from your local arts and crafts supply store:

• Miniature Christmas tree (While a miniature tree size may vary, I’ve gone with a tree that measures top to stand bottom of total of 9 inches.)
• Polymer clay of various colors
• Polymer liquid clay
• Pasta machine
• Small round cookie cutter
• Exacto knife
• Dental excavator (“Instrument of torture.” So says my husband.)
• Paint brush
• 32 gauge wire
• Assortment of decorative garland
• Scrap fabric
• Clay oven
• Glass beads
• Steel jump rings

The first step is making cupcakes. Clay cupcakes are great for beginners; they’re easy and very friendly. Who could possibly get into a quarrel or mischief with a cupcake, right?

I’ve chosen flesh color Fimo soft modeling clay for the bottom of my cupcake. Feel free to use whatever clay you feel comfortable with, I go back and forth between Fimo, Premo and Sculpey III clays.

Some notable differences between the three are:

• Fimo has a slightly firmer texture than the other two which means it is not that great for making detailed features but super for something like a teacup or plate, etc.
• Premo, after baking, has a bit of flexibility to it, which makes it perfect for jewelry making.
• Sculpey is for “everything” else.

Roll the Fimo into a fat, short snake then squish it between thumb and forefinger while using the dental excavator to make indentions. Indention pressure should roll from the strongest at the bottom, to the least towards the tip. Work your way around the Fimo making as many indentions as you desire.

Use Sculpey to make the cupcake top by first making a “snake” before coiling as shown. Place the coil onto a cupcake bottom, pressing down just enough to make the two stick together.

For the “cherry” I used Fimo glitter red. Warning! This color will stain your hands so make all the “cherries” and push a jump ring into each then Wash hands thoroughly with soap and water.

Place a drop of liquid clay with a paint brush at the top of the coil before placing the “cherry” with the jump ring, again pushing down only enough to make the two stick together.

Bake the cupcakes according to instructions and when completely cool glaze as desired.

Now for the cake slices!

Clay cakes can be as Plain Jane or as extraordinary as you desire. Do a little ChaCha search and you will find dozens of sites with various clay cake instructions. I went Plain Jane, choosing brown and white Sculpey.

First make a round ball of brown, the diameter of a quarter, and then slightly smash it on a protected surface with the palm of your hand. A small round cookie cutter will assist in getting the perfect cake shape. Next, white clay will need to be flattened in a pasta machine on a number 5 setting and then cut with the same cookie cutter.

Place the flattened white clay over the round brown “cake” and mold as desired to replicate icing. Cut into slices. (Tip: place cake in the refrigerator for ten to twenty minutes before cutting for perfect slices)

Once you have your slices secure a jump ring in each. I decorated the tops with glass beads of pink and gold with a thin coat of liquid clay overtop.

Bake according to instructions.

When cool, glaze the cake slices as desired.

Now to decorate!

I strung silver garland about the tree then, using 32 gauge wire, I hung the cupcakes and cakes, followed with strips of fabric tied to branch tips.

Your Treat Tree is the perfect holiday decoration for a fireplace mantel, a table setting or the corner of a work desk.

We’re getting down to the wire; Christmas is right around the corner. The Christmas tree should be up and fully decorated (mine is finally, satisfactorily full) and my munchkins are eager, if not downright ballistic, over Santa’s arrival.

For many, holiday shopping is coming to a close or so those who've just begun are wishing! For the latter crowd here’s a little help on that list should you find yourself in dire straits with needing something for a child’s school teacher, the mail carrier or a co-worker for the company gift exchange.

What in the world to get them?

How about something simple, not too expensive, because everyone’s wallet could use a breather this time of year, and one-of-a-kind!

You will need from your local arts and craft supply store:

• Polymer clay of various colors
• Polymer liquid clay
• Paint brush
• Aluminum foil
• Small steel jump ring
• Ribbon, yarn or string
• Exacto knife

Items recommended but not necessary:

• Clay oven
• Knitting needles of various sizes*
• Tiny glass black beads
  

When it comes to working with clay my first suggestion is to roll the clay into quarter size or smaller balls, softening and warming the clay thoroughly in your hands.

The Santa ornament starts with a scarf. Roll out your chosen color as evenly as possible to desired length. Think of a snake. I suggest laying the clay on a flat surface and rolling the clay with one finger to help keep an even thickness. Coil your “snake” as many times as you want, keeping in mind that the “head” of Santa will need to nest in the center, so make sure to test how well the Santa head fits.

Next, flatten a dime size ball of clay, the same color as your scarf, with a pasta machine at a setting of 6 or 7. Using an Exacto knife, cut out two squares of varying length, cutting “fingers” on one end for fringe, these two pieces will go at either ends of the scarf to disguise the rounded edges. Lightly push your coil down on a protected surface, this flattens the bottom just enough to keep it from rolling around your work area.

Now, let’s work on Santa’s nose by making first a tear drop shape with two tiny circles on either side for the nostrils. Attach nose to Santa’s face using knitting needles to poke holds for eyes that are then filled with one black glass bead each. (You can use small balls of black clay as well.)

I decided to put Santa’s mustache on at this point, another two tear drop shapes, before nestling his head on the coiled scarf. Push his head gently into the coil, just enough to make sure he doesn’t roll away. Once the head is secure, you're set to work on the beard, which is a dime size ball of clay, flattened at a 6 or 7 pasta machine setting.

To start the hat make another snake and coil around Santa’s head. For the remainder, take a ball of your chosen color about the diameter of a quarter between both hands and roll out to pinky length. Force your thumb through the center at one end while pulling out the surrounding edges. As the edges become larger work out the top of the hat to a point. Bend and then place hat on Santa’s head working it around the coiled edges already placed about his forehead.

A small ball is perfect for the end of Santa’s hat or use a steel bell (glue on after baking).

Now place the jump ring by pushing halfway into the center of the top of the hat, close to the forehead. A little tip here, after pushing the jump ring halfway into the hat, use a tiny ball of the same color clay as the hat and blend in above the indention to secure the jump ring to the ornament.

Once Santa’s hat is secured work on his hair, blending it into his mustache and beard. Use the Exacto knife to make creases around the eyes, and on the hat and scarf. This gives the clay texture and "life".

Use liquid clay to secure all pieces and then bake according to instructions.

Once Santa is thoroughly cooled use glitter paint on the hat or scarf, chalk for rosy cheeks and nose, before glazing.

*Knitting needles are my absolute favorite “must have” tool when working with Polymer clay. They help blend in areas your fingers can’t reach.

Try a snowman!

Or a bear!

Celebrations, Christmas and holidays in general are never boring for my family. Whether it was the unforgettable moment of my mother having lost an entire meatloaf she cooked for a get-together (we’ve yet to explain that under an hours time), yours truly having caught her hair on fire while blowing out birthday candles (I will never live that one down) or the fact we highly anticipate who receives a gift with the price tag still on! (Yes, we look and keep track so as to tease the giver relentlessly!)

To tie into those slightly uncontrollable, highly unconventional family gatherings we look for ways to be unexpectedly creative with our gifts, from the wrapping paper, the gift bag and even the gift tag!

Yes, something as little and seemingly insignificant as the gift tag can be creatively jazzed up for any gift-giving occasion with a little bit of clay, fabric and these easy directions.

You will need the following from an arts and crafts supply store:

• Premo Polymer Clay (in the colors of your liking)
• Premo Liquid Clay
• Paint brush
• Aluminum foil
• Yarn, fabric or string
• Drinking straw

Recommended but not necessary:

• Clay oven
• Pasta machine
• Clay glaze
• Molds, cookie cutters, etc.
• Stickers, glitter, etc.

Take a flat color such as brown or black to make the base of your tag. The shape can be anything you wish, circles, stars, squares. I suggest using molds, cookie cutters or cut outs. I typically use a paper punch the shape of a gift tag on stock paper.

After rolling out my base clay through the pasta machine I cut out the shape of the gift tag, using aluminum foil to protect work surfaces. A straw is perfect to make the hole to string fabric, yarn or ribbon through for later. (Tip: Push the straw all the way through and then twist the clockwise and pull up so as to get a clean, thorough and large enough hole. This may take a practice run with extra clay. Putting the flattened clay in the refrigerator for a few minutes is also helpful to get a nice circular cut.)

Once you have the base of your tag it is time to decorate with more clay! Depending on the size of your tag use clay molds, cookie cutters or as I have done on this tag, cut out various shapes to create a one of a kind design. (Leave space for stickers or other items that can only be added after baking.)

Polymer liquid clay is great as an adhesive for your design and then bake according to instructions.

Once the tag is completely baked and cooled continue decorating your piece with stickers, glitter, etc. Glaze, if desired, but allow drying time before stringing fabrics or yarn. I like to use wild yarns or for this tag, pieces of fabric with silver garland.

The possibilities are endless and won't your receiver be surprised! A great activity that's fun for kids, as well, with adult supervision, of course.

T’was a few weeks before Christmas

And all through the house

Not a moment of silence

But a whole lot of pouts...

That’s about as far as I dare go lest I invoke the angst of Shel Silverstein but after two Snow Days from school my darling munchkins (aka children) were getting a fairly nasty case of the boredoms. So under a thunder cloud of pouts but well before my said darlings started tearing down the house starting at the rafters, I put together several holiday characters.

Reindeer, snowman and snowflake (oh my!).

As you will recall from my previous Noodled Noggin’ entry, Tree Trimmings, concerning the state of my family’s Christmas tree, that being it was looking a wee bare. I had filled the tree with stuffed stars but was still debating the old tried and true paper chain. That was before pouts and reindeer, snowman and snowflake (oh my!) collided.

I daresay I’m well on my way to a very happy looking Christmas tree!

Now put your own little Snow Day bored munchkins to work. They will need:

• Printer
• Paper stock
• Paper hole punch
• Yarn or string
• Scissors

Note: Click the images below for the full size. Be sure to do a “print preview” and select the box for “fit to available space” and enjoy!

My childhood memories are full of time spent deep in cold white snowdrifts with a frozen face and fingers, suffering silently in order to make the biggest and the best snowman on the block.

There is something incredibly nostalgic about snowmen. Even as an adult I can't help foaming over the first perfect snowfall, eager to get outside to create! At least until I'm brutally reminded just how laboriously intensive making a snowman is, from how heavy snow can be to the disgusted discovery that the mound I'd been pushing all through the yard for the last ten minutes includes a massive spot of yellow snow!

Ewww....

So rather than get my children and myself all bundled up for what will inevitably be a knock-down-drag-out-quarrel over any of the following: How to properly make a snowman, whose fingers are the coldest and "who threw that snowball at my eye?" How about bringing the snowman making indoors!

You will need:

• White terry cloth fabric
• Fiberfill
• glue gun and glue sticks
• polymer clay in orange and black
• scrap fabric
• small sticks, bell or pipe cleaners (optional)

Make three round, connected circles on 8 1/2 x 11 paper to represent the head, belly and bottom of a snowman. Cut and pin to the white terry cloth fabric, leaving plenty of seam allowance and cutting two of each. Put like sides together, sew, leaving a large enough gap at the bottom so as to turn the snowman from wrong side to right and fill with fiberfill.

Once your snowman is full, sew the hole closed.

Using black polymer clay, make five small circles for a mouth, two larger circles for eyes and three slightly larger than the eyes for "buttons" on the belly. A carrot nose can be made using orange polymer clay; bake according to instructions.

Once the clay nose, eyes, mouth and buttons have cooled completely use a hot glue gun to glue clay pieces to the face and belly of your snowman. Use scrap fabric to tie about the neck for a scarf and more scrap fabric to wrap about the head as a sock hat. I wrap and glue the end of the sock hat just off the shoulder of my snowman where a pinch of fiberfill or a small bell completes the end of the hat.

Optional small sticks, pipe cleaners, clay or wire can be added for arms and hands. Make gloves out of scrap fabric or clay and glue to the ends. Leave your snowman without arms if putting on a Christmas tree as it makes for easier placement and storage.

If you are one of those wives with a husband who considers holiday decorating more than just stringing a single strand of lights around the Christmas tree or sneaking off with an armful of holiday baked cookies, then you are one lucky gal. 

As for yours truly, holiday decorating was a fairly lone project and after putting up lights, my collection of Santas and every-little-do-dah consisting of proper tree decor and etiquette my hub had the audacity to stand back and survey MY work.

"Tree looks a little bare." He replied, one hand under his chin, the other on his hip.

Several glares and one mighty, "Bah humbug!" later, I had to agree. The Christmas tree was not so much bare as looking mighty pathetic. Several moves over the last few years, coupled with a thieving cat, a chew-obsessed dog, and two destructive children has equalled the loss of the majority of our holiday ornaments. Boxes missing, glass and ceramic ornaments smashed from overloaded moving vans; what was one to expect? But how to fill a tree without putting too much pressure on the wallet or repeating history by having fragile ornaments easily and all too quickly destroyed?

My only solution was going paper and stuffed. As for paper, I really wasn't wanting to go paper chain (though that would be incredibly cheap and would fill empty spots on the tree quickly) stuffed seemed the next-best-thing. If I managed to keep it not only quick but relatively simple, long-lasting and pet-proof.

I first traced out a star, absolutely nothing perfectly proportional (I can't expect too much of myself), just a simple, slightly skewed star measuring a little bigger than 5x7 on paper with plenty of seam allowances. After cutting out the star I picked the most pleasing of fabrics I could find amongst my stash. (Obviously I was in a red mood!) and then pinning the star to the fabric and cutting two of each. Flipping the fabric over so that right sides are together, it was time to sew, baby, sew! I left a large enough hole so as to flip the star right side out and then stuffed accordingly with polyester fiberfill. (Don't skimp on those pesky corners, carefully use the eraser end of a pencil to help push fill in, also helpful while turning from wrong side to right.) Once I had the star stuffed to my liking I sewed the hole closed.

With stuffed star in hand the possibilities are endless; decorate with buttons, glitter or even fill, before sewing hole closed, with dried herbs! You can sew ribbon to hang from tree limbs or do as I did and simply sit amongst the other ornaments. Make dozens of stars, sew them to each other with ribbon to make garland.

Easy. Simple. Tree filling and husband shushing!